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Building A Shed

I guess I take for granted that we know how to build, LOL, mostly how to make something that looks good anyhow. We are no experts but if need be, we can put something together with just a little bit of wood and some nails/screws. With a whole lot of motivation and ingenuity  we can get it up quickly! 
That said, I was thinking about this. I asked others what they thought of me putting up a tutorial of sorts on how to build a shed. Now I say of sorts because I am NOT going to tell ya exactly how to do it but instead will give ya some ideas on how we built ours. I think everybody that builds has their way of doing things, some work, some don't.
I have pictures for some of this......
BUILDING A SHED:
We started by measuring out the spot where we  wanted the posts(key to knowing this measurement is knowing what size you would like the shed) to go on our outside line of the property boundary(first finding that line cuz there isn't a fence line yet). 

 
 After we drilled the holes some of which had to be dug out with a hand post hole digger because the postholer doesn't get all your dirt out. 

We put the posts in, checking our measurements(measuring from outside corner of one post to outside corner on the other)to see if within the perimeters of our desired measurements of 8 feet. NOTE we put the two outside posts in first. Started putting dirt back in around the post...tamping it as we go(put a bit of dirt, tamp, put a bit of dirt, tamp etc until you hit the top).....Tamping is a method of using a flat edge(tamping tool or end of your shovel) to pack the dirt.

 You want it packed around the post so it does not move. We did not use cement around our shed but we are using cement around the shop poles(much bigger building) like this..

We did not feel it necessary to use cement for the goat shed as it will not have significant weight on it. Nor do we use it on fence posts. Packing the dirt around the post is sufficient enough. When using cement we put in dry then spray the top so it puddles real good and let it slowly soak in plus the moisture from the ground will help set it(less mess and it works).
If using cement, let rest for the night or 24 hrs is better.
Then we measured out 8 feet for the other two posts figuring out where to put them. Marking, drilling but the difference is on these that when we set these posts we made sure that the inside measurements were square. Ok this is how we did that so it all came out right....from the outside corner of post diagonally(outside to outside) measure the distance then go to the other post opposite side and measure the distance the same way...these measurements should be the same(square).
I wrote it out so maybe you can follow.....

 Once you get this square you can start the filling and tamping. Keep in mind this is a small shed and us rednecks try to get it square but you may find you are off an inch or two....keeping it in perspective it is just a goat shed....LOL! No perfection to be attained here!
Next you want to put what we call a ground board in....we had uneven ground to work on so a board was necessary to see where the bottom of the outside boards and batting were going to attach to. Then going upwards, we measured 24" and nailed another board (level) using this measurement until we reached desired height for the roof line. Following the line all the way around this building using our eyes to make it look right.
Next you are putting the outside rafter (the board that you see at an angle). These will rest on your last boards up creating your pitch in your roof. On the inside of the posts on the tall side of the shed another header board tucked tight against the bottoms of the two outsside rafters allowing all the inside rafters to be placed on it and achieve the same angle.
The outside rafters in this picture are short...most of the time you will use a board that is longer or another term used going wild...this has a purpose which I will try to explain later in this article.

NOTE: When we added the rafter we had to add a 1" board under the rafters because the fresh cut inside rafters were an 1" smaller dimension than the outside rafters due to sawyers mistake... another words fudging it a bit! LOL!

Ok we have added the outside rafters, now we add the siding. We used roughly cut(not all the same measurements) 1x8 pieces. We started on the tall side taking each board starting from one corner post, eyeballing the edge to make it look square. Each board placed as close together as possible, nailing them to the three boards(running sideways), top middle and bottom. Notice the top is long, it will be cut off later....
Did you know there are different nails for different projects? We used different nails in this one project plus screws....Ask you hardware man which nails would be good for each application it does make a difference!
Sorry little off track..
Do this same thing with the second angled wall... cut them all at the same time using the outside rafter as your guide. The short wall was a bit different. I had to wait for him to get the inside rafters in. because each board had to be cut prior to installation to fit under the small header board installed here.
In this picture, notice the boards in between the rafters. These are called "squirrel frustrators". Meaning they block critters and weather from getting into the shed.
I know this is a lot to digest but with a little imagination you can build this too!
The fourth and final wall, measure out where your doorway is going to go. If you use large posts like we did you already have part of the doorway made. The other side requires a post and boards both for nailing on and siding just like everything else. This post will have to be short one placed for the door jam. Finish off this wall with whatever scraps you have left for above the door...works great!

Which brings me to the inside rafters part(average of 13" apart)......each of these rafters were measured out evenly across the roof line and toe nailed(by placing the nail at an angle in the side of the board) in place on top and bottom of the shed on the roof line. Across the top of the rafters going the opposite direction nail a 1x3 every 24 inches so you have something to secure your tin to.
The rafters going wild is used as a guide when adding the metal on. When nailing on the metal you want to measure out the length by placing & tacking your first line up. When you know how long you want it, mark your rafters all the way across to the end of the tin and cut excess off all the way across your roof line.

You should be just about done except building yourself a door.... the only other thing we did was add "bat boards". These are boards that cover the cracks. Can you see inside of the pic above what difference it makes on the furthest wall...have to look hard.

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